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Logan Lewis - Green Daoist Robe

Daoist Priest's Robe (Jiangyi) with Four-Clawed Dragon Roundel Design
Chinese; Qing dynasty, circa 1850-1900
Green silk satin embroidered with multicolored silk floss and couched with gold- and silver-wrapped thread and silk plied cord
Murray Warner Collection, MWCH45:1
 
This green Daoist Priest’s Robe was probably produced between 1850 and 1900. Such robes were worn over the priest’s shoulders like a cloak and are made from one continuous bolt of silk. Their spiritual function was to act as a temporary “temple,” with the priest functioning as a conduit inviting deities to descend to participate in ceremonies. Wearing such a vestment, the priest provided a sanctified space for the gods. Color was also important. This robe is a green color similar to jade, which was highly valued. The opening for the wearer’s head represents the entrance to a Daoist temple, so directional guardians protect the collar—a white tiger to the west and blue dragon to the east. The robe is so wide that even with arms outstretched the priest’s hands would remain covered, which would keep the sacred hand gestures he performed secret.
 
The decoration on the back of this robe is more complicated and detailed. Just as the robe’s width hid the priest’s hands, its length hid his body. Since he performed most ceremonies with his back to the congregants, they would see all the splendid, auspicious symbols. At top center, guarded by dragons, is the golden tower where the Daoist immortals dwell. Imagery with five-clawed dragons was reserved for imperial use, so the dragons seen here (and elsewhere on this robe) all have four claws per foot, making an important distinction between secular and religious authority. The teardrop-shaped background of the tower is surrounded by 28 golden discs representing constellations, or “lunar mansions,'' which symbolize the cosmos. Beneath are five talismanic symbols representing the five sacred mountains of Daoism. Above and to the left can be seen the white hare in the moon, and to the right, the three-legged bird in the sun. With the golden tower, lunar mansions, sun and moon, and talismanic symbols, this robe represents a celestial map. In addition to Daoist symbols such as cranes, lingzhi fungus, clouds, and waves, it also includes some Buddhist imagery such as the eternal knot, vase, and fish.
— Logan Lewis